Jewellery Metals: A Comprehensive Guide to Types and Uses

Jewellery metals play a crucial role in the aesthetics and durability of various pieces.  

Understanding the properties and uses of different metals can significantly enhance one's appreciation of jewellery.

From precious options like gold and platinum to more accessible choices like silver and copper, each metal offers unique qualities that cater to differing tastes and budgets. 

The choice of metal affects not only the look of a piece but also its maintenance and longevity. For example, gold is renowned for its lustre and resistance to tarnishing, making it a popular choice for fine jewellery. In contrast, other metals like brass can offer a vintage appeal but may require more frequent care to maintain their appearance. 

Exploring jewellery metals can also lead to insights into personal style and culture. Each metal carries its own story, often intertwined with historical significance and craftsmanship. This journey through the world of jewellery metals can inspire individuals to select pieces that resonate on a personal level. 

 

Characteristics of Common Metals 

The most common metals used in jewellery include gold, silver, platinum, and titanium, each with unique characteristics. 

  • Gold is valued for its lustre and resistance to tarnishing. It is often alloyed with metals like copper or silver, resulting in different karats. For example, 18kt gold contains 75% gold. 
  • Silver is known for its bright shine but is more prone to tarnishing. Sterling silver, comprising 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, is a popular choice for its balance of durability and aesthetics. 
  • Platinum boasts exceptional strength and longevity. Athletes and those with an active lifestyle often prefer it for its hypoallergenic properties. 
  • Titanium is lightweight, strong, and corrosion-resistant, making it an excellent option for modern designs. 

 

Historical Use in Jewellery 

Throughout history, metals have played significant roles in cultural expression and value. 

  • Gold has been used since ancient times, symbolizing wealth, and power in cultures worldwide, from Egyptian burial artifacts to royal crowns. 
  • Silver also has a rich history, often associated with trade and currency, which is evident in the use of silver coins in various civilizations. 
  • Bronze, an alloy of copper and tin, was extensively used in ancient societies for tools and ornaments, paving the way for advancements in metallurgy. 
  • In the modern era, various metals have emerged, including stainless steel and palladium, reflecting evolving tastes and technological advancements. 

 

Precious Metals 

Precious metals are highly valued for their rarity and unique properties. They are often used in jewellery due to their aesthetic appeal and durability, making them ideal for various types of adornments. 

Gold 

Gold is one of the most popular precious metals in jewellery. It is known for its lustrous appearance and resistance to tarnish. The purity of gold is measured in karats (kt or K), with 24kt representing pure gold. 

  • Types of Gold: 
  • Yellow Gold: Traditional, warm hue. 
  • White Gold: Alloys of gold and metals like palladium or nickel. Gold has a natural yellow hue and often requires rhodium plating to achieve a bright white finish. This plating not only enhances the appearance of gold but also provides added durability and resistance to tarnishing, making it a popular choice for white gold jewellery.  
  • Rose Gold: Contains copper, giving it a pinkish tone. 

Gold is malleable and can be crafted into intricate designs, making it a favoured choice among jewellers. 

Silver 

Silver is another widely used precious metal known for its bright, shiny finish. It is more affordable than gold and is often used for more casual jewellery pieces. 

  • Purity Standards: 
  • Sterling Silver: Contains 92.5% silver and is the most common form used in jewellery. 
  • Fine Silver: Composed of 99.9% silver but is softer and less durable. 

Silver requires careful maintenance to prevent tarnishing, and regular polishing can keep its shine intact. It is often combined with other metals to enhance durability. 

Platinum 

Platinum is a dense, malleable metal with a naturally white sheen. It is highly resistant to corrosion, making it ideal for various jewellery applications. 

  • Durability: Platinum is one of the most durable precious metals available. 
  • Purity: Often marketed with a purity of 95% (950 Platinum), which signifies its quality. 
  • Weight: Heavier than gold or silver, lending a substantial feel to jewellery pieces. 

Due to its rarity and strength, platinum tends to be more expensive, making it a premium choice for engagement rings and other high-end pieces. 

Palladium 

Palladium is a lesser-known precious metal. Similar in appearance to platinum, it offers a bright white finish and lightweight characteristics. 

  • Alloy Properties: Often used in white gold alloys to enhance durability and shine. 
  • Hypoallergenic: Suitable for individuals with metal sensitivities, as it does not promote allergic reactions. 
  • Corrosion Resistance: Resists tarnish and corrosion effectively, making it ideal for everyday wear. 

 

Base Metals 

Base metals are essential in jewellery-making and often serve as the foundation for more precious materials. Their characteristics and cost-effectiveness make them popular among artisans and consumers alike. Below are key base metals used in jewellery. 

Copper 

Copper is a versatile metal known for its malleability and conductivity. It has a reddish-brown colour that can add warmth to jewellery pieces. 

Due to its softness, copper is often alloyed with other metals to enhance durability. The alloy known as bronze is made by combining copper with tin, while brass is a mixture of copper and zinc. 

Copper can oxidize over time, developing a green patina, which some wearers find appealing. It is also used in artisan jewellery and can be treated for hypoallergenic properties. 

Nickel 

Nickel is a strong metal often used in jewellery for its durability and resistance to corrosion. Its shiny appearance makes it an attractive choice for various designs. 

Commonly found in alloys such as sterling silver, nickel enhances the hardness and strength of the final product. However, it can cause allergic reactions in some individuals, which has made nickel-free options increasingly popular. 

Nickel is also used in plating, providing a protective layer that extends the life of jewellery. Its affordability makes it a staple for costume jewellery as well. 

Zinc 

Zinc is primarily used as a component in alloys rather than a pure metal in jewellery. It is a critical ingredient in brass and is appreciated for its anti-corrosive properties. 

The addition of zinc strengthens the overall structure of the jewellery while maintaining a smooth finish. This makes it ideal for pieces that require a balance of durability and aesthetic appeal. 

Zinc can also be anodized to create vibrant colours, expanding its use in fashion jewellery. While not commonly used alone, it plays a vital role in enhancing other metals. 

Alloys 

Alloys play a crucial role in jewellery making by blending various metals to enhance properties such as durability, appearance, and value. The following discusses specific alloys commonly used in jewellery. 

Sterling Silver 

Sterling silver consists of 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, typically copper. This combination improves strength, as pure silver is too soft for most jewellery applications. 

Sterling silver is known for its attractive, shiny finish and is often used in rings, bracelets, and necklaces. It can tarnish over time due to reactions with moisture and sulphur in the air, necessitating regular cleaning. 

To maintain its appearance, many prefer to choose pieces with a protective coating or storage methods that minimize exposure to air. 

Rose Gold 

Rose gold, also referred to as pink gold, is an alloy made by mixing gold with copper. The copper content varies, but the most common ratios include 18kt (75% gold, 25% copper) and 14kt (58.3% gold, 41.7% copper), but a small amount of silver can also be added to create a milder rose tone. 

This blend gives rose gold its distinctive warm hue and durability, making it popular for engagement rings and fashion jewellery. 

Rose gold can also develop a patina over time, which some individuals appreciate for its vintage quality. 

White Gold 

White gold is created by alloying yellow gold with metals like palladium, nickel, or silver. This process results in a silvery-white finish that resembles platinum. 

Due to its resistance to tarnishing and scratching, white gold is a preferred choice for many types of jewellery, including wedding bands and earrings. 

Most white gold pieces are plated with rhodium to enhance their sheen and protect against wear, but this plating may require reapplication over time to maintain a bright appearance. We offer rhodium plating in-store; if you have any questions about this service, please do not hesitate to ask. 

Titanium Alloys 

Titanium alloys are known for their exceptional strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance. Typically, titanium is alloyed with aluminum and vanadium to achieve desirable properties in jewellery. 

Due to their lightweight nature, titanium alloys are increasingly used in contemporary designs, especially for wedding bands and fashion pieces targeted at those with active lifestyles. 

Jewellery made from titanium alloys is hypoallergenic, making it suitable for individuals with metal sensitivities. 

 

Metal Finishes 

Metal finishes significantly impact the appearance and texture of jewellery. Different techniques can create unique styles, enhancing the aesthetic appeal while serving functional purposes. The following discusses four common metal finishes. 

Polished 

Polished finishes are characterized by a shiny, reflective surface that captures light beautifully. This finish is achieved through buffing and polishing techniques, which eliminate imperfections and create a smooth texture. 

Jewellers often use polishing compounds to enhance metals like gold, silver, and platinum. The result is a bright and glossy appearance that can elevate the piece's elegance. However, polished surfaces may scratch more easily, requiring careful handling and maintenance. 

Polished finishes are popular in rings, bracelets, and necklaces where a bright shine is desirable. Their reflective quality compliments gemstones, making them a preferred choice for intricate designs. 

Brushed 

A brushed finish offers a subtle and textured surface, achieved by using abrasive materials to create fine lines on the metal. This finish is less reflective than a polished surface and creates a muted contemporary look. 

Brushed finishes are often found in modern designs, thanks to their ability to hide fingerprints and minor scratches. They are commonly used on stainless steel and sometimes on precious metals like gold and silver to enhance a rustic or industrial feel. 

 Satin Finish

Satin finishes, often achieved through sand blasting, create a soft, textured surface that has a subtle sheen. This technique involves blasting the metal with fine particles, resulting in a smooth yet matte appearance. Satin finishes are less reflective than polished surfaces, offering a sophisticated and understated look. They are commonly used in both contemporary and classic designs, making them versatile for various jewellery styles. Satin finishes are particularly popular for wedding bands and everyday wear pieces, as they effectively hide scratches and wear over time, ensuring the jewellery maintains its beauty. 

Hammered 

Hammered finishes create a unique texture through intentional dents and dimples formed by striking the metal with a hammer. This process results in an organic and artisan look that is highly sought after. 

The dimpled surface reflects light in various directions, adding visual interest and depth to the piece. Hammered finishes work well with various metals, including gold and silver, and are especially popular in handmade jewellery. 

This finishing technique is often used in rings, pendants, and earrings, giving pieces a distinctive appearance. Each hammered piece is unique, highlighting the craftsmanship behind its creation. 

Matte 

A matte finish features a non-reflective, smooth surface that lacks gloss. This finish is achieved through abrasive processes, resulting in a soft and understated look. 

Matte finishes are excellent for creating a modern aesthetic while offering practical benefits. They are less prone to showing fingerprints and scratches, making them ideal for everyday wear. 

Commonly used in contemporary design, matte finishes work with metals like titanium and palladium. Their subdued elegance appeals to those who prefer a minimalist style in their jewellery choices. 

 

Care and Maintenance 

Proper care and maintenance are essential for preserving the beauty and longevity of jewellery metals. This section covers effective cleaning techniques and appropriate storage solutions to keep jewellery in optimal condition. 

Cleaning Techniques 

Regular cleaning is crucial for maintaining the appearance of jewellery. Different metals require specific cleaning methods: 

  • Gold: Use warm soapy water and a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a microfiber cloth. 
  • Silver: Clean with a silver polish cloth to remove the tarnish. For deeper cleaning, use a mixture of baking soda and water, apply gently, and rinse. 
  • Platinum: Similar to gold, a solution of mild soap and water works best. Rinse and dry completely. 

Avoid abrasive materials that can scratch the surface. For intricate designs, consider professional cleaning to ensure all areas are properly addressed. 

Please note that we offer a FREE JEWELLERY CLEANING as you wait! 

Storage Solutions 

Storing jewellery properly can prevent damage and tarnishing. Consider these best practices: 

  • Individual Pouches: Store each piece in a soft pouch to avoid scratches. 
  • Boxes with Dividers: Use a jewellery box with compartments to separate items. This prevents tangling and exposure to air, which can cause tarnishing.
  • Avoid Humidity: Keep jewellery in a cool, dry place. Humidity can accelerate tarnishing, particularly in silver. 

Please visit us in-store to see a wide selection of jewellery boxes. 

 

Authentication and Hallmarking 

Authentication of jewellery metals is crucial for ensuring quality and value. This process typically involves verifying the metal's purity and origin. 

Hallmarking serves as a regulatory measure in many countries. It provides a guarantee of the metal's content and is often stamped on the item. Common hallmarks include: 

  • Gold: Typically marked with "24kt" 18kt" or "14kt", also marked with "24K," "18K," or "14K" 
  • Silver: Often represented by "925" for sterling silver.  
  • Platinum: Usually indicated by "95" or "900" 

Each hallmark indicates the percentage of pure metal present. For example, 18kt gold contains 75% gold and 25% other metals. 

 

Karat Gold 

Parts Gold 

Percentage Gold 

International Stamping 

9 kt 

9 parts gold, 15 parts alloy 

37.50% 

375 

10 kt 

10 parts gold,14 parts alloy 

41.67% 

416 

14 kt 

14 parts gold,10 parts alloy 

58.33% 

583 or 585 

18 kt 

18 parts gold, 6 parts alloy 

75% 

750 

22 kt 

22 parts gold, 2 parts alloy 

91.67% 

917 

24 kt 

24 parts gold 

99.99% 

999 or .99999 

Platinum 

95 parts platinum, 5 parts alloy 

95% 

950 or PT950 

Silver 

  

  

925 

 

 If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at shop@independentjewellers.net. We are here to assist you! 

 

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